How to Get Contractor Bids for a Home Renovation (The Right Way)
Most renovation nightmares start the same way: the homeowner picked a contractor based on one bid, a handshake, and a good feeling. Three months later they're $20,000 over budget wondering where it went wrong.
Getting multiple bids isn't just smart. It's the single most important thing you can do to protect your money on a renovation project. Here's how to do it right.
How Many Bids Do You Need?
Three is the minimum. Five is better for projects over $50,000. Here's why:
Three bids establish a baseline. If all three cluster around the same number, you know the market rate. If one is way off in either direction, you know who the outlier is.
Five bids on larger projects give you a wider view. You'll see different approaches to the same problem, different material specifications, and different timelines. That information is valuable even if you end up going with one of the first three.
One bid tells you absolutely nothing. You have no way to evaluate whether the number is fair.
Where to Find Contractors
Word of mouth is still the best source. Ask neighbors, coworkers, family. Someone who did a similar project recently will have strong opinions about who to call and who to avoid.
Specialty trade associations. For electrical work, check your local IBEW or NECA chapter. For plumbing, the United Association directory. These contractors are licensed, insured, and accountable to their trade organization.
Your local building department. Some municipalities publish lists of licensed contractors. This won't tell you who's good, but it confirms who's actually licensed to work in your area.
Nextdoor and neighborhood Facebook groups. Real recommendations from people in your zip code. Filter for comments that include specific project details and dollar amounts, not just "great guy, highly recommend."
Avoid lead generation sites. Services that sell your contact info to contractors attract the businesses willing to pay for leads. That doesn't mean they're bad, but it does mean you're starting the relationship as a commodity. Your phone will ring 15 times in an hour.
What to Include in Your Bid Request
The quality of bids you receive depends entirely on the quality of information you provide. Vague requests produce vague bids.
Write a scope of work. Even a simple bullet list helps. "Remodel master bathroom: new tile floor and shower surround, new vanity (60-inch double sink), new toilet, new light fixtures, exhaust fan. Keep existing layout, no plumbing rerouting."
Provide measurements. Bathroom is 8x10. Shower is 3x5. Contractors will verify with their own measurements, but starting numbers help them ballpark the project.
Specify material preferences. If you want porcelain tile, say so. If you're flexible, say that too. "Open to material suggestions in the $4-$8/sqft range for tile."
State your timeline. "We'd like to start in April and need it done before July 4th" gives the contractor real constraints to work with.
Ask for itemized bids. This is the most important request. Say: "Please provide an itemized bid with materials and labor broken out separately. Include all permits, demo/haul-away, and any allowances for fixtures."
How to Make Bids Comparable
If you give three contractors the same scope document and ask for itemized bids, you can compare them line by line. Without this, you're comparing apples to oranges.
Common things that make bids non-comparable:
- Different material specs. Contractor A priced porcelain, Contractor B priced ceramic. The $2,000 gap isn't a pricing difference, it's a material difference.
- Excluded items. Contractor A includes demo and haul-away. Contractor B doesn't. Add $1,500-$3,000 back to Contractor B's number.
- Permit assumptions. One includes permits, one says "permits by owner." The permit cost plus your time pulling them is worth $500-$2,000.
- Contingency. A responsible contractor adds 10-15% contingency for unknowns. An aggressive one doesn't. The aggressive bid looks cheaper until the change orders start.
Red Flags in the Bidding Process
They won't put it in writing. "I can do it for about fifteen" is not a bid. It's a guess. Insist on a written, itemized proposal before making any decisions.
Huge deposit demand. More than 10-15% upfront before any work starts is unusual. Some states have laws capping deposits. The exception is custom materials that need to be ordered. A 50% deposit request on a standard remodel is a warning sign.
Much lower than everyone else. The cheapest bid is rarely the best value. It usually means missing scope, planned change orders, or a contractor who underbids to get the job and makes it up later.
No license or insurance information. If they dodge the question, move on.
Pressure to sign today. "This price is only good until Friday" is a sales tactic, not a construction reality.
After You Get Your Bids
You've got three itemized bids sitting on your kitchen table. Now what?
Compare them line by line. Look for scope differences. Ask each contractor to explain anything that's significantly higher or lower than the others. Most contractors are happy to walk you through their reasoning.
Or upload all three to BidCheck and let us do the comparison for you. We analyze every line item against local pricing benchmarks, flag items that are above market rate, identify scope gaps between bids, and give you a clear picture of which bid offers the best value. Takes about 5 minutes.